Exploring the Unique Blend of History and Design in Palm Springs

Florence Westergard
Mar 28
4 min read

As a designer and architect, we’ve been visiting the desert city since 2014, drawn by its distinct architectural character and cultural heritage. In 2018, we took our connection a step further by purchasing a home designed by Hugh Kaptur, one of the city’s renowned mid-century architects. Owning a piece of Palm Springs’ history has made us even more passionate about its preservation, from its Native roots and pioneer grit to its Hollywood glamour and modernist innovation.

The Heartbeat of the Desert: The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians

*First bathhouse, 1910. Credit: Palm Springs Historical Society*

Long before Palm Springs became a desert retreat, it was home to the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. The tribe’s ancestral presence in the region stretches back thousands of years, and their deep connection to the land is still visible today. The Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Spring—believed to have healing properties—has been a sacred site for generations. Its importance endures, not only as a natural landmark but as a symbol of the tribe’s resilience and cultural continuity.

Visiting the Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza, which opened in 2023, gave us a deeper appreciation for the tribe’s heritage. The stunning new museum honors Cahuilla history through exhibits, oral histories, and interactive programs. It’s a space where the tribe’s traditions are celebrated and shared with visitors, ensuring that their stories remain vibrant and accessible. Nearby, sacred sites like Tahquitz Canyon and Indian Canyons offer guided tours that weave in Cahuilla folklore and ecological knowledge, adding to the city’s rich cultural tapestry.

Pioneers and the Birth of Palm Springs

In the late 19th century, settlers arrived in the area, seeking opportunity in the arid desert landscape. John Guthrie McCallum, one of the region’s earliest pioneers, played a key role in Palm Springs’ development. In the 1880s, he and his family moved to the area, determined to transform it into a thriving agricultural community. McCallum constructed an irrigation system using water from the Whitewater River, which supported local farming and laid the foundation for the town’s expansion.

The McCalllum Adobe House - Credit: Palm Springs Historical Society — The McCalllum Adobe House

We appreciate the city's dedication to maintaining this historic structure. Now part of the Palm Springs Historical Society, this building provides insight into the difficulties and perseverance of the area's initial non-Native settlers. Constructed in 1884, the adobe is the oldest remaining structure in the city, serving as a concrete connection to its pioneering origins.

Hollywood’s Desert Playground

By the 1920s, Palm Springs had transformed from a small agricultural settlement into a glamorous desert escape. The region’s dry climate and seclusion made it a popular destination for Hollywood’s elite, who sought refuge from the spotlight. The “two-hour rule” (which required actors under studio contract to remain within two hours of Los Angeles) made Palm Springs the perfect getaway.

Stars like Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe, Dean Martin, and Elizabeth Taylor made the desert their playground, building lavish homes and hosting legendary parties. The Rat Pack famously held court at Sinatra’s Twin Palms estate, while Bob Hope and Steve McQueen commissioned custom-designed retreats.

House of Tomorrow - Robert and Helen Alexander Home - Designed by William Krisel, Architect Aka: Elvis Honeymoon Home

Even today, you can feel the allure of Palm Springs’ golden age. Driving through neighborhoods like Las Palmas or the Movie Colony, you can catch glimpses of former celebrity estates, many lovingly restored. The city’s enduring link to Hollywood adds an air of nostalgia and charm, making it feel like you’re walking through a living time capsule.

Mid-Century Modernism: The Architectural Legacy

By the mid-20th century, Palm Springs had become a canvas for architectural experimentation. Modernist architects embraced the desert’s natural beauty, designing homes and buildings that blurred the line between indoor and outdoor living. Richard Neutra, Albert Frey, Donald Wexler, and William Cody were among the visionaries who shaped the city’s aesthetic with their clean lines, open floor plans, and innovative use of glass, steel, and concrete.

Owning a Hugh Kaptur home has given us a personal connection to this era. Kaptur’s work perfectly captures the spirit of desert modernism, with angular rooflines, organic materials, and an emphasis on blending architecture with the surrounding landscape. Living in one of his creations allows us to experience firsthand the design principles that have made Palm Springs a global architectural destination.

Modernism Week has become a highlight of our annual visits. The festival celebrates the city’s design heritage through home tours, lectures, and exhibitions. Walking through restored homes or exploring public buildings like the Tramway Gas Station or Frey House II, we’re reminded that mid-century modernism in Palm Springs isn’t just a style—it’s a way of life.

Frey Gas Station - Source: Palm Springs Historical Society

A City of Preservation and Passion

What makes Palm Springs truly special to us is the passion that goes into preserving its cultural legacy. Every time we return, we’re struck by how much care is taken to honor both its Indigenous roots and its mid-century architectural identity. Walking through neighborhoods, we can feel the dedication behind these efforts. It’s in the attention to detail—the thoughtful restorations, the interpretive signage, and the preservation of sites. While we don’t see the behind-the-scenes work of preservation organizations firsthand, the results are unmistakable. It’s clear that a lot of people—tribal leaders, preservationists, and passionate locals—are fighting to keep Palm Springs’ history alive.

Of course, challenges remain. The city’s continued growth as a luxury destination sometimes puts historic structures at risk. However, thanks to the advocacy of local preservationists and the involvement of the Agua Caliente Band, many of Palm Springs’ cultural landmarks are being protected and celebrated.

Palm Springs: A Living Legacy

For us, Palm Springs is more than just a scenic escape—it’s a place where history and design converge. Each visit reveals another layer of its story, from the enduring presence of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians to the pioneering spirit of early settlers, the glamour of Hollywood’s golden age, and the timeless beauty of mid-century modernism. Our connection to the city has deepened over the years, not just through the home we own but through the appreciation we’ve gained for its rich and complex heritage. Palm Springs is a living legacy, and we feel fortunate to be part of its story.